The salmon-safe label was created in the late 1990s to try to translate consumer interest in salmon into money for farmers who did right by fish.

“We started out working with vineyards in the Willamette Valley,” Dan Kent, executive director of Salmon-Safe, recalls. Today, he says, more than 800 farms from Alaska to Northern California have the certification, including a third of Oregon’s vineyards.

But things haven’t worked out exactly as Kent had hoped. Not enough consumers know what salmon-safe means — and that means not enough are willing to pay more for staple food items like eggs that carry the label. But a different class of buyers does know what salmon-safe means, and it is interested: grocery stores.

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