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This year marks a sea change for the more than 50-year-old icon—a turnover in ownership. Still, in an industry that delivers weekly news of megacorporations swallowing micro-corporations and family businesses facing agonizing succession decisions, the fate of Heitz Cellar (the plural has been dropped) seems rather gentle. This is the holy grail of a family-to-family sale—values shared, wine style respected.

It’s also a reminder that the glamorous world of wine is, at heart, a matter of agriculture.

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