Wine industry members are quick to point out that the majority of this year’s wines should be fine. Anywhere from 75 to 90 percent of the wine grapes had been picked by the time the fires started, based on various estimates. That includes nearly all white grapes and most of the reds. Those grapes that were on the vine were late-ripening reds like Cabernet Sauvignon. However, Cabernet grapes also typically fetch the highest prices, so while the percentage of the crop lost may be small, the percentage of lost revenue could prove higher.
Winemakers are carefully monitoring the remaining fruit they are picking, sending samples to labs to look for signs of smoke taint and fermenting affected grapes separately to assess their flavor. Winemaker Aaron Pott was looking carefully at the grapes picked post fires. “We want to get the grapes off as quickly as possible and as gently as possible to avoid issues,” says Pott. But he is not going to compromise on quality. “If [the wines can’t be bottled as single-vineyard blends] they will be sold in bulk, with severe cutback to the grower and of course the winery.”
Folio’s Robert Mondavi Jr. reported one of the most extreme cases of damage. Their organic vineyard on Atlas Peak was singed by flames that burned the cover crop and the end posts. Much of the crop couldn’t be salvaged, so they will not produce their 2017 Animo.